Amalfi
literally stunning
Amalfi is a treasure crevice cut into the cool rock at the foot of the Lattari mountain range. Quietly it sparkles within, protected; it’s unimaginable what lies within. One enters through arched passageways, which open into a beautiful square. Then splashes gold light catch your eye. You look up to see what must be one of the most exquisite and impressive cathedrals in the world. Its details and outside walls are decorated with mosaic of all colours, even silver and lots of gold. Combined with sunshine, the effect is dazzling.
Every year around June, Amalfi hosts a historical boat race: The Ancient Maritime Republics Regatta. People with history and the spirit of the sea in their souls celebrate the sea. Dressed in traditional costume they perform passed on rituals under the scattering light of fireworks. Fireworks are an important tradition along the coast line and generally in south Italy. Even grown men are passionate about the fireworks.
Every town and village has a patron saint. On the saint’s scared day, a statue of the saint will go around the town on the back of a van or on the shoulders of men. Passing along the streets with noisy clanging music, children and adults alike are calling, “He is coming!” imploring you with a twinkle in their eyes. Those adults have been running into the street to see their town’s saint, ever since they were little and before. Memories flood back as they stand with tears, notes and petals to shower on the passing protector. Once all the offerings have been collected and the complimentary Saint poster has been received, fire works are set off. Loud bangs and sparks try to frighten the sunshine into lighting up. For the entire day and night the fireworks will beat the sky like a drum.
Many people have never left their Amalfi villages for very long, if at all. The dances and food, song and music are all steeped in old traditions. Traditions which have had many a passionate love affair with rogue influences. Traditions which could be accused of being just a little romantic. They are both in love with and living in their past.
Flowers flop over walls, shocking bougainvilleas and coy but testy prickly pears garnish the town. Citrus, in particular lemons are a symbol of the region. All along the coast you are making an educated choice if you choose something with lemons in it. Lemoncello, lemon sorbet, Dilizia al Lemone (a heavenly lemon desert).
If you love fish, then Amalfi is for you. (My husband loves fish the way some people love drugs.) Most of the restaurants serve fish and if you keep it simple, you can’t go wrong. It will be fresh, delicate and special. Order the house white, it’s likely to be home-made by close relatives or friends. It’s not a quiet refined wine but rather an extremely fine home-made wine. Clean, pure, light, delicious and cheap. In summer it’s advisable to throw a peach into your pitcher and even red wine is chilled. A good rule my hubby, the food worshipper, has taught me is to look for the restaurant with a shorter menu. It means things are fresh because that’s what you should be after.
I once heard Johnny Depp (in an interview) say that it is almost impossible to have a bad meal in Italy. The key is eating what is local and in season; (you payless and it tastes better) creamy juicy mozzarella , rich smoked provola, cherries, peaches, oranges, lemons, grapes, wild mushrooms, chestnuts, pasta (no cream, EVER, well hardly) raw olive oil, fish wrapped in lemon leaves, tiny fried fresh fish, simple pizza, mussels, clams and the best tomatoes you will ever eat.
I recommend two important experiences of the Amalfi coast. One from land and the other from the sea. First hire a Vespa and do the whole fifty kilometres from Sorrento to Salerno and back. Especially when it is really hot and there may be traffic, theVespa is an escape. Has to be a Vespa, it’s a tradition. If you are like me and you suffer on bendy roads the Vespa is the solution. The double-decker public buses, believe me, are not the answer. I cannot describe the joy of a Vespa! My second suggestion is to hire a boat or take a sunset cruise. To see the coast from the sea is inspiring, even from a peddle boat. On a calm day one can even dive in the immense blue sea and have a safe off shore dip.
Joanne Dunn
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