Insiders Guide to the Amalfi Coast – part 03

Cetara
Little fishing village

Cetara is and always was a little fishing village. Still inhabited by a few little old fishermen with tough hard hands, boats symmetrically scatter themselves along the pebbled beach. The sea is gentle and friendly; wearing simple swimming goggles completely changes the swimming experience. Every year Cetara celebrates "The sacred day of the tuna and anchovy" for three days, twice a year, around May to July.

One way to beat the exchange rate, and you if you prefer "the road less travelled", is to visit these places in winter. They are practically deserted and only the people who really live there remain. However be prepared for many of the touristy shops and restaurants to be closed. Cetara was once an important hideaway for Arabic pirates who would raid the coastlines Tyrrhenian Sea. It is an ancient little hideout with a history over a thousand years old.
Due to the nature of the town it’s a good place to taste the sea. My husband and I have two favourites, Ristorante S.Pietro and Ristorante AcquaPazza. The S.Pietro is an old favourite among local people who love and understand sea food. Believe me there is allot of understanding to be done when it come to food and it’s preparation in south Italy. I often crave the thin slices of raw swordfish on a bed of wild rocket and sweet white onion.
(Again find out what is fresh and recommended. Let them guide you; they take your eating experience seriously.)
The name Acquapazza refers to a Neapolitan method of preparing Seafood. Literally translated from Neapolitan it means crazy water. The Ristorante AcquaPazza is unique because it does unusual combinations. Combinations, which may not surprise Capetonians, but shock the traditionalist Italian food lover. Recipes which date back three hundred years are common and expected by the citizens. So, this is a brave little non traditional restaurant which my mother in-law rejects because “you really don’t eat there”. (This is said firmly slowly and passionately, with emphasis on and repetitions of the word eat.) They shock by serving home made linguini with tuna eggs and figs, spicy bean and mussel pasta and calamari with pureed chickpeas and raw dark green olive oil. (I know it sounds Italian but here that is experimental). Be warned that Aquapazza can become very expensive if you start on the starters, though the starters are the best part and give you a chance to try a little of everything.
On the twenty eighth and ninth of June every year the village celebrates their saints, Saint Peter and Saint Paul. The grand finale takes place on the second evening. Spectators are treated to an amazing fireworks display over the sea. The shiny black sea reflects mammoth sea urchins. The colours, lights, sounds and even the smells burn to a climax. Often I find myself cheering and emotional.

Joanne Dunn